We stockpile broken stuff. Do you do the same?
We’ll let the broken things pile upon the desk or workbench until they are so high they form a visual border wall between one room and another. It’s only then that we decide to pull the plug on that clear Gorilla Glue and start checking off “fix broken stuff” line items from the ‘ol honey-do list. So that’s what I’m tackling today. Heather here. But today, you can call me “honey”.
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Because I’ll be the one tackling that honey-do list today. And we’ll be doing it with the help of some Clear Gorilla Glue®.
I’m going to take on (3) small wood repair projects using this type of clear glue. And although I’ve used many of the Gorilla Glue products in the past, this was my first time trying this particular variety. There are a lot of glues out there. So many that it can sometimes be overwhelming trying to figure out the particular glue you should use for a particular job.
We chose clear Gorilla Glue for these repairs because it is described to be non-foaming, non-expanding, and is supposed to dry completely clear. It can be used on multiple surfaces, including wood, stone, metal, ceramic, foam and glass. To tackle any wood repair project at home, you may want to have the following supplies handy:
As I mentioned at the beginning, I tried this clear Gorilla Glue on three different projects at home to see how it performed. The first was that little painted antique table in the picture at the top of the post. It had some wood chipping away on the bottom of the tabletop.
This repair required bonding wood to wood. Since wood is a porous surface, I didn’t need to do any special prep of the surfaces before applying the glue. If you’re working with a non-porous surface(s), you’re supposed to dampen one of the surfaces before applying the glue.
After the glue was applied, I simply clamped the repair with some small clamps (source in the supply list above).
After two hours, the glue is dry. I removed the clamps.
As promised, the clear Gorilla Glue dried completely clear! Sometimes I find that wood glues will turn yellowish when dry. And some of them bubble up and have a foamy-looking appearance when dry. This didn’t at all with this product!
I will say that I did apply too much glue for this little project, so there was some glue that needed to be removed once the table dried. It was very easy to get off. I just used a credit card to scrape it a bit, then my fingertips to roll over the area making sure that the surface was completely smooth. The next project I tackled was repairing a lazy susan in our kitchen.
The carousel has a rubber bumper that attaches to a groove in the particle board rotating platform. But ours has been falling off for ages. For this repair, since I was adhering a porous surface (the particle board) to a non-porous surface (the rubber bumper), I dampened one surface (using a wet wad of paper towels) before applying the glue.
After applying the glue all along the edge of the particle board, and inside the groove in which the rubber bumper is to sit, I used finishing nails to hold the repair in place as the glue dried. Easy breezy. And here’s the result:
The glue worked perfectly, and no evidence of it can be seen anywhere it was applied. No more getting hung up on that thing when I’m trying to move the platform around. Don’t ask me why there isn’t enough of that rubber bumper to make it completely around the lazy susan platform. Drives me nuts, but such is life.
The last item I used the clear Gorilla Glue on was a piece of our kitchen island trim that had fractured off at some point…we have a lot of small people with flailing limbs living here.
And check out the nastiness on that island. Lots of shoe marks and ketchup stains and general muckiness. Ewww. Since this repair was another where I was glueing two porous surfaces together, there was no need to dampen anything. I simply applied the clear Gorilla Glue to the fractured trim piece, and set it in place.
This repair was a bit of a challenge to secure while drying. I ended up wedging a couple 2×4’s between the island and the kitchen wall behind it, and placed something heavy on top to lean in to the top of the trim piece to make sure the bulk of it was being approximated over the next two hours. Below is a snapshot of my McGyver-esque drying set-up.
And while that was drying, I decided to repaint the back of that island. I couldn’t NOT do it. It was just too gross. Luckily, I had painted it with chalk paint initially, so it only took me about 15 minutes to get it cleaned up, and another coat of chalk paint applied. This is why chalk paint is A-MAZING to work with. Super quick and easy.
Here’s how the island looked after the repair + paint job:
So much better, right? And as promised, the clear Gorilla Glue did a great job adhering, and dried completely clear. Overall, I was THRILLED with the results this clear glue gave me. Couple things to note:
- Make sure to use this clear Gorilla Glue for projects that you can successfully brace/clamp for a few hours while drying. I tried using this on a pair of sunglasses, but because it was so impossible to clamp the repair well, I realized I needed to use their Gorilla Super Glue product (that’s quick drying) instead.
- Make sure to clean the tip of the glue applicator with a damp cloth before closing it after your repair. You don’t want to inadvertently glue the cap to the glue bottle. Whoops!
All in all, if you are looking for a clear glue product, we’d certainly recommend clear Gorilla Glue highly. Now go fix some broken stuff! Hope this product helps you whittle down your own honey-do list!
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